Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Urinary Tract Infection in Dogs

In dog, urinary tract infections are caused by bacteria in the urinary bladder, urethra or kidney. Symptoms are easy to diagnose for a vet and with early treatment the infection will wane off completely within short time. But if left untreated, the disease may become fatal.
Common symptoms -
1. The dog will demand to go outside frequently even if you have given him proper toilet training.
2. He may cry to take him for walking. The dog will feel difficulty in urination.
3. There may be straining. The passed urine will have a fetid smell.
4. In complex cases symptoms of blood dribbling out from the urethra can be seen. It causes tremendous burning sensation in the total urinary passage, so you may see the dog is licking his genitalia for quite a long time. They do it to ease out a bit.
5. He will become lethargic and may refuse to take his choice of foods.
6. There may be tenderness in the lower part of abdomen for a long standing case of dog urinary infection. Symptom of fever is also seen in those dogs and it is a common but often unnoticed sign of fever.
7. In advanced cases symptoms of kidney involvement can also be seen.
Treatment
The earlier the treatment begins; the better is for the dog. There is no point waiting as you notice any dog urinary infection symptom. Offer him plenty of water and other fluid. It is healthier to add some Vitamin C with the water. You must take the dog outside for walking for more number of times. As he urinates, he will feel better and the bacteria will be washed out. Any medicine should be given after a consultation with the Vet.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

dehydartion in dogs

In less than 5 percent dehydration cases, the skin will immediately return to normal.
Pets that are 5 percent dehydrated have a loss of skin elasticity. The skin will return to normal but at a little slower than a normal pet.

6 to 9 percent dehydration have a noticeable delay in the skin returning to normal. The eyes may also appear sunken and the gums dry.Pets with 10 to 12 percent dehydration have skin that does not return to normal position. It will stay in the tented position until it is physically returned to the normal position. The eyes are significantly sunken, the heart rate is elevated and the pulses are weak.Pets with 12 to 15 percent dehydration are in a life threatening situation. The pet is typically collapsed, severely depressed and in shock. Death is imminent if aggressive and immediate treatment is not provided.In addition to physical exam findings, lab tests are needed to determine the presence and severity of dehydration.A packed cell volume (PCV) and total protein test are the most important tests. The packed cell volume is the percentage of red blood cells currently in circulation. Normal PCV ranges from 35 to 50 percent. In dehydration, the fluid in the blood is inadequate and the blood becomes more concentrated. This results in an increase in the PCV.The total protein is the amount of large protein molecules in the blood. As with red blood cells, in dehydration, the concentration of the protein increases due to a lack of fluid. In a dehydrated animal, both the PCV and total protein are elevated.A urinalysis can also help reveal dehydration and may even help determine an underlying cause. In dehydration, the concentration of the urine is higher than normal. If a known dehydrated animal has dilute urine, kidney disease is the suspected underlying cause of the dehydration.Complete blood counts and biochemistry profiles can help determine the overall health of the animal as well as determine possible underlying causes for dehydration. Unfortunately, these blood tests do not always diagnose dehydration and can be normal even in a severely dehydrated animal.TreatmentThe treatment for dehydration is to rehydrate with fluids. Since the animal is unable to meet the fluid demands by consuming sufficient food or water, injectable fluids are used. The fluids may be given subcutaneously or intravenously. Intravenous (IV) fluids are preferred since the rehydration is hastened and can be more appropriately monitored.Once your pet is diagnosed with dehydration, the amount of fluid needed must be determined. The volume of fluid that needs to be replaced is based on the percentage of dehydration and the animal's body weight. A rough calculation can be made based on one of the following formulas:The number of liters of fluid required is equal to percentage of dehydration multiplied body weight in kilograms.The number of milliliters of fluid required is equal to 500 multiplied by the percentage of dehydration multiplied by the body weight in pounds.In addition to rehydrating, fluids are also needed to maintain hydration and meet ongoing fluid needs if the underlying cause of the dehydration has either not been found or has not been treated.There are multiple different types of injectable fluids. The type of fluid used in based on the concentrations of sodium, chloride and potassium as well as any other patient needs.
After rehydration, the underlying cause of the dehydration must be addressed. Additional testing as well as examinations may be required to find the underlying cause. Make sure your pet eats and drinks normally. If dehydration is suspected, promptassistance is essential to prevent further dehydration.

In obese pets, underestimating the severity of dehydration can occur easily because the skin returns to normal due to excessive skin fat. In extremely thin pets, the skin is not elastic so the degree of dehydration can be overestimated.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

How to prevent biting habit of your dog

Puppies must learn to inhibit their biting habit before they are 4 months old. With large breed dogs, 4 months may be too late because at this age the puppy may already be too large for most mothers of young children to feel comfortable around. For owners, the larger the dog is, the more difficult it is to control, especially around children. Normally, they learn this from their mother, their litter mates. But as we take them away before learning is completed, we must take over the responsibility of training them.

Ways to prevent biting habit -

1. Socialization - Allow your puppy to socialize with other puppies and dogs so that they can pick up where they left off. Puppies roll, tumble and play with each other and when they play, they bite each other. This is where they learn to inhibit their biting and learn to control themselves. This happens naturally and we cannot accomplish it. It can only be learned from trial and error and they must learn from their own experience.

Another advantage of dog to dog socialization besides the fact that it will help your dog to vent their energy in an acceptable manner. So the amount of play biting on you and your family should decrease gradually. Puppies that do not play with other puppies are generally much more hyperactive and destructive in the home as well.

Lack of Socialization Causes Biting

A major cause of biting is lack of socialization of your pup, which often results in fearful or aggressive behavior. The two major reactions a dog has to something it is afraid of are to avoid it or to act aggressive in an attempt to make it go away. This is the most common cause of children being bitten. Dogs that are not socialized with children often end up biting them.

2. Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting -

There are many other reasons your dog biting behavior and before you teach your dog anything, there are two essential prerequisites - trust and respect. If your dog doesn't trust you, there is no reason why he should respect you and when you attempt to teach your dog something, he may not listen to you. Even abused dogs love their owners and a unique characteristic of dogs is their unconditional love. You don't have to do anything to acquire your dog's love. But you must do a lot to gain your dog's trust and respect.

Another area where you may destroy our dog's trust is when you scold or punish them for house soiling and accidents. When house training your puppy, there is never an appropriate time to punish. If you catch your dog in the act, just head for the towels and cleaner. You have no right to scold him, because if he is going in the wrong place, it is your fault, not his. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Deworming of your cat

Periodical deworming of your cat is necessary along with vaccinations and regular treatments for fleas. It's a major part of their health maintenance and is very important for you also.

Usually all kittens are born infected with some form of a worm. These worms can be transmitted via the mother's milk or through placenta. The same goes for an aged cat as well. It takes a lot of effort to keep cats worm-free. For this the veterinarians will suggest deworming of your cat, as needed.

As roundworms are very common in kittens, it is important to worm them very frequently when they are young. The recommendations are to treat them every two weeks from about six weeks of age to 16 weeks of age.
Tapeworms are only usually a problem in older cats, so adult cats need to be treated with a drug active against both roundworms and tapeworms. The frequency of treatment will vary slightly depending on whether the cat hunts or not and whether it is treated regularly for fleas. Treatment is recommended every 2-6 months in adult cats, with a drug active against roundworms and tapeworms.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

shona in different moods




shona is in different moods - with balloon and in her new frock.

shona



Tuesday, April 14, 2009

shona






holi - shona played with colors







on 13 march 2009, we celebrated holi with colors. it was shona's first holi and she was very happy while playing with colors. she enjoyed it a lot and while taking photos she was making different poses as if she will become a model. some times she is very funny but she is very loving to me.i love her very much as she always gives me strength to fight against my week points.she is like a energy booster for me and i know i can face things coz she is always there to hold me, love me.

Monday, April 13, 2009

HOW TO PREVENT KIDNEY STONES IN DOGS

FEW STEPS TO PREVENT THE KIDNEY STONE FORMATION
1. Stones should always be sent to a laboratory for analysis
2. Eliminate bacterial urinary tract infections and check the urine of dogs prone to them twice a year.
3. Diets high in grain and vegetables produce alkaline urine, which allows certain stones to form.
so such diet should be given in certain limited quantity.
4. Some ready made diets recommended for dogs are available in the market. If at all possible feed the canned form of this diet rather than the dry form as dogs rarely drink enough water after eating dry food.
5. The drug furosemide, prednisone and prednisolone and vitamins C and D may increase the chances of oxalate stone formation.
6. If urine specific gravity is 1.015 or less, providing the pet with a thiazide diuretic will increase thirst and produce diluted urine.

KIDNEY STONES IN DOGS

Kidney stones in dogs can be very painful and can lead to serious health problems if not treated. Kidney stones - Dogs naturally have minerals in their bodies like calcium, magnesium, ammonia or phosphorus. When there is excessive mineral salts in the urine in humans, they are filtered out through the kidneys. But it can be difficult for these minerals to be soluble in the naturally acidic urine of dogs, these minerals can form stones. While they may not pose a health risk while in the kidneys, they may grow very large and be quite painful if they pass through the rest of the urinary tract, even blocking the tract in the worst cases.
Stones may consist of different types of minerals, general causes of kidney stones can include kidney or urinary tract infections, dietary factors, medications, or geriatric affects. There are some breeds that are naturally predisposed to develop kidney stones, such as Dalmatians, Yorkshire terriers and English Bulldogs. Kidney stones tend to appear more in female dogs and also older male dogs.The most obvious symptoms will occur if the stones pass into the bladder, or the ureters. This will cause severe pain, straining until the stone passes or is surgically removed.
Diagnosis and Treatment
Most stones are visible on an x-ray. Some stones are made up of more organic matter than mineral and may be more difficult to find on an x-ray, so an ultrasound could be used to locate them. There are diets available commercially to dissolve the stones. Dogs that show no changes in five or six months will probably have the stones removed surgically. The stones are removed from the kidney, then the kidney is flushed and sewn up.In order to control reformation of kidney stones, dogs should have a urine test twice a year to prevent urinary tract infections, have access to urinate frequently and plenty of water to keep them hydrated and the urine well diluted.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Water requirement of your dog

There are many different factors that affect the water intake of a dog so it is always wise to provide free access to water all times so that the animal can regulate its consumption as needed. A general rule of thumb is that an animal needs to consume 2.5 times the amount of water, as its daily intake of food. If an animal eats 400g of dry food it should consume 1L of water. Factors such as heat and exercise or lactation can increase the requirement two or three times above normal. A little extra water consumption never hurts. Animals that eat canned foods get most of their moisture from the food and may drink much less than an animal on dry food.

Few golden rules -

1. Dogs need water to sustain and must be fed fresh water at least 3 times a day.

2. More water needs to be provided when your dog eats more of dry food. Water requirement is not as much for raw or canned food.
3. Dogs prefer cold water. The temperature of water needs to be decided according to weather, amount of exercise, degree of exercise, age and how much your dog's kidneys can hold.
4. Snow as a substitute for water can be dangerous. You can give homemade ice cubes as treats if your dog likes frozen water.
5. During housebreaking put down the water bowl for about 10 minutes and give about 3-4 hours and take your puppy out. Give your puppy water about 3 hours before bedtime.
6. Pay attention to how much water your dog drinks. If your dog drinks unusually more or less than it normal volume of water, it can be signs of being unwell.
7. Do not allow your dog to drink large amounts of water after physical activity or exercise to avoid water intoxication.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

prevention and treatment of hyperthermia

Prevention
Keep pets with heat stroke in the shade as even normal activity in hot summer for these pets can be harmful.
Provide access to water at all times.
Do not leave your pet in a hot parked car even if you're in the shade or will only be gone a short time.
Make sure outside dogs have access to shade.
On a hot day, restrict exercise and don't take your dog jogging with you. Too much exercise when the weather is very hot can be dangerous.
Do not muzzle your dog.
Avoid places like the beach and especially concrete where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade.
Wetting down your dog with cool water or allowing him to swim can help maintain a normal body temperature.
Move your dog to a cool area of the house. Air conditioning is one of the best ways to keep a dog cool, but is not always dependable.

To provide a cooler environment, freeze water in soda bottles, or place ice and a small amount of water in several resealable food storage bags, then wrap them in a towel or tube sock. Place them on the floor for the dog to lay on.

TREATMENT -

Hyperthermia is an immediate medical emergency. Safe, controlled reduction of body temperature is a priority.

Cool water may be poured over the head, stomach, underarms and feet, or cool cloths may be applied to these areas.

Rubbing alcohol may be applied to the footpads to dilate pores and increase perspiration. Ice may be placed around the mouth and anus.
The dog’s rectal temperature should be monitored regularly and discontinue treatment once he shows signs of recovery or his temperature has fallen to 103ºF.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Hyperthermia - A Dangerous condition in dogs

Heat stroke or hyperthermia or elevated body temperature is usually one term. If a pet’s body temperature exceeds 103°F, it is considered abnormal or hyperthermic. Body temperatures above 106°F without previous signs of illness are most commonly associated with exposure to excessive external or environmental heat. Some people may think that winter is the only weather which can be dangerous for dogs. The fact is that hyperthermia can kill just as easily as hypothermia can.
Dogs don’t sweat like we do rather they expel heat through panting. This panting does cause them to lose water, which makes summer a deadly time for many dogs.
The most common cause of heat stroke or hyperthermia is leaving a dog in a car with inadequate ventilation. The dog’s body temperature can elevate very rapidly in this condition, often within minutes. It is important to remember that dogs cannot control their body temperature by sweating as humans do as they only have a relatively small number of sweat glands located in their footpads. Their primary way of regulating body heat is by panting.
Other common causes of heat stroke include being left in a yard without access to shade or water on a hot day. Excited or excessively exercised dogs are sometimes at risk even if the environmental temperature and humidity does not appear hot. This is particularly true if they are kept in a poorly ventilated environment or dog house.
Dogs with a restricted airway such as pugs, boxers, and bulldogs are at greater risk. In these breeds, clinical signs of heat stroke can occur when the outside temperature and humidity are only moderately elevated.
Dogs that are muzzled for any reason can be at greater risk since their ability to pant is restricted by the muzzle. Seizures or severe muscle spasms can also elevate the body temperature due to the increase in muscular activity.
It’s important to keep your dog cool this summer, so be sure to take the proper precautions. Most importantly, have plenty of clean, cool water where they can easily get it. Keep them indoors during the hottest time of day or at least make sure that they have plenty of shade. Also, be sure to never exercise your dog during the heat of the day.
If your dog has to be outside, try a cooling pack against his/her belly. They’ll appreciate how good it feels and you won’t have to worry about them overheating.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

shona - my daughter. i am happy to have her




shona in different moods.enjoying her lovely childhood time.she just loves fruits, milk, curd and paneer.
she is not so fussy about things like other children. i know its too early to comment but she is a beautiful gift to me and i love her very much.

litter training your puppy

Puppies below three months of age have very limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't know until the last moment. you can not expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you're good observant, you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to relieve itself will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he is actually looking for a place that's already been used. By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him that the only appropriate place is outside the house.
Set up a dog crate or small, confined area, using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large, the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. If you've bought a crate for him to “grow into,” you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he's small. If he must be left alone while you're at work, then a larger crate is okay.
Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out.
Also in the crate should be a water dish, sleeping pad and toys. Put the crate where he isn't away from the family. If you're using a confined area instead, a small gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and isolating your puppy.
Your puppy might not like the crate at first. If he gets really obnoxious, reach inside the crate, give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. Eventually he'll settle down and sleep. If you give a tempting treat every time you put the dog in his crate, he'll soon look forward to going in.
The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't keep a close eye on him. Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. If you've allowed him to go when he needs to, he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control, he won't need the newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they've been soiled.
Puppy's first night at home
Get off on the right foot at the beginning. After bringing the pup home, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go.
Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly, others may take half an hour.
If he's being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving, so to speak!
Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door - This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he'll probably have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!
After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him into his crate for the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to, then put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't want to go back to sleep.

Monday, April 6, 2009

flank spay (keyhole surgery) in a female dog

Flank spay
A flank spay is an ovariohysterectomy that is performed by making the incision in the lateral body wall instead of the ventral midline. Benefits of this approach include an ability to observe the incision from a distance. When the flank incision is closed, the three separate muscle layers are each individually sutured, so there is less tension on any suture layer. The vascularity of these muscle layers may reduce healing time. Because wounds are not under the weight of abdominal contents, there is less tension on the incision, so there is a lower risk of dehiscence and lower risk of evisceration if dehiscence does occur. Finally, an incision on the lateral body wall may be less likely to become contaminated when animals can’t be kept in a clean environment post-operatively. It is also a useful approach to use for spaying dogs that are lactating or have mammary gland hyperplasia. This surgical method is commonly used in India.
Health Benefits
1. Spaying before the first heat can nearly remove the risk of mammary tumours in female dogs if spayed before their first heat.
2.False pregnancies are eliminated, and all their resulting stress.
3.Early spaying prevents ovarian and uterine tumours.
4.Uterine infections are also completely eliminated.
5.Spaying prevents accidental pregnancies.
Behavioral Benefits
1.A spayed female is much more comfortable.
2.By removing her hormone-producing ovaries, the mood swings are also removed .
3.There will be no more bloodstains on the carpet or bedding.
4.No more male dogs trying to break down your fence to reach her.

ovariohysterectomy or spay in a female dog

Female dog comes on 'heat' twice a year, which may last for about 21 days. It is just an old thought that a female dog needs to have a litter of puppies once in its lifetime. Studies has proved that by spaying a female dog before her first heat cycle, chances of developing mammary cancer are reduced. In fact, a female spayed before sexual maturity (6 to 9 months of age) has one-seventh the risk of an intact female of developing mammary cancer.

SPAYING - THE ADVANTAGES
You can avoid the mess and inconvenience when your female dog comes in heat and can prevent unwanted puppies.Spaying helps detour females from roaming the neighborhood looking for a mate. Early spaying completely eliminates uterine infections.
THE SURGERY
Spay is the complete removal of the female reproductive tract -the ovaries, oviducts, uterine horns, and the uterus. The surgery also removes the source of production of such hormones as estrogen and progesterone, which are responsible for stimulating and controlling heat cycles.
The spay is performed under general anaesthetic so she will not feel anything during the procedure. The sterilised instruments are used and the skin is prepared before the surgeon opens the abdomen, thereby minimising bacterial contamination. Both ovaries and the uterus are removed. The abdomen is closed using suture material that dissolves and is absorbed by the body. The skin is usually sutured with stitches that have to be removed in 10-14 days. After 3 days she is usually back to normal.
Precautions: Do not allow your bitch to jump or exercise vigorously until the stitches are removed. There should be no games or forced exercise for the first week.
Home care
When she has recovered from anaesthesia, offer only small amounts of light food and water at first - give your dog some time to settle down. After that she can do whatever she feels like doing.
Although general anesthesia and surgery always involve a certain amount of risk, it is very unlikely that your dog will have any serious trouble with the operation. If we are going to have problems, they are likely to be from licking at the suture. A little licking is normal, but if your dog seems to be really after those sutures, take her to hospital probably fit her with a protective collar.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

orthopaedic instruments







these are some of the orthopaedic instruments. A vet has to be a good doctor, artist,mechanic,carpenter - in short a jack of everything.myself, Dr.Ralph and Col.Prince operated this fracure case and i am waiting for Dr.Kirsty Officer to send me the latest photos of the radiographs of the healed bone. i am also excited to see the results and dog might be happy to walk again without any discomfort.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

trim your dogs nails

How to trim your dog's nails
1. Always use a nail clipper designed for dogs.
2. Arrange yourself and your dog comfortably. Some dogs will sit right down in your lap for a nail trim. But you can also sit on the floor next to your pup during the procedure.
3. Reassure your dog. calm voice will help make nail trimming more pleasant for both of you.
4. Hold each paw as you work and spread the toes. Be careful to stay away from the quick, which is easier to cut into than you think. The quick is the end of the toe's blood vessel, so if you cut the quick, the toe will bleed.
5. Trim dewclaws. Look for them high on the inside of each foot. Not all dogs have them; in many breeds, it is common for dewclaws to be removed shortly after birth. These can get torn easily in the field and are painful.
6. Finish off with a reward. Give your dog his favorite treat and a lot of praise when you're done, so he learns that nail trimming has its benefits. That way, he'll be more apt to cooperate next time.
How to treat an injured toenail
If you've clipped into the quick of the nail, you'll know: your dog will probably be in pain. Apply pressure or dab a bit of nail styptic powder, which acts as a coagulant, to stop the bleeding. If you don't have styptic powder, sometimes putting the toe in flour will help.
If your dog tears a nail before you've had a chance to clip, apply pressure right away with a clean rag or handful of gauze. After you've stopped the bleeding, wash his paw with warm, soapy water and take a good look at the injury.