Showing posts with label bath. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bath. Show all posts
Sunday, January 6, 2013
Hypothermia
Thursday, August 19, 2010
GUINEA PIG - BATHING
Guinea pigs don't need bath in routine until they are soiled or you want to take them for show purpose. It is stressful for them but if you are good with bathing them, they will not have much troubles. You can use baby shampoo or mild kitten shampoo or soaps with aloe vera and neem based. Guinea pigs need frequent bath when they are infested with ectoparasites.
After bathing they should be towel dried properly and care should be taken that water does not enter their eyes and ears. They should be kept at dry and warm place for proper drying.
After bathing they should be towel dried properly and care should be taken that water does not enter their eyes and ears. They should be kept at dry and warm place for proper drying.
Friday, January 15, 2010
YOUR PUP'S FIRST BATH
Puppies generally do not need to get bathed until they are three months old since they get their vaccinations during these first three months of their lives and during this time their bodies are more sensitive to catch a cold. It's always best to take all the necessary precautions. When your puppy finally takes his first bath, make sure to find a nice warm spot to it in and use the appropriate dog shampoo. Puppies and dogs don't need to get bathed very often in order to stay clean. The most important requirement for their cleanliness is to get groomed and brushed everyday. If the dog or puppy gets mud on his coat, you can clean it off by using a towel with soap and warm water.If the puppy is very young, you can bathe him in the kitchen sink.Place a clean wet wash cloth on the bottom of the sink so the pup won't slip.Buy a dog shampoo from a Pet store.Human shampoo is not good for bathing puppies or dogs because the pH of dog skin is different from the human pH.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
guinea pig - bathing
Bathing
Most guinea pigs do not like the water. Guinea pigs should not be bathed unless they absolutely need it – for medical reasons, such as fleas, or if they happen to get extremely dirty, mud or sewage.
As an alternative to a bath, consider some of the following options:
Powder baths – apply the powder to the fur and brush out with a stiff brush
clean dirty bottoms with hydrogen peroxide – gently rub to remove feces and urine stains
clean fur with a washcloth and warm soapy water
Most guinea pigs do not like the water. Guinea pigs should not be bathed unless they absolutely need it – for medical reasons, such as fleas, or if they happen to get extremely dirty, mud or sewage.
As an alternative to a bath, consider some of the following options:
Powder baths – apply the powder to the fur and brush out with a stiff brush
clean dirty bottoms with hydrogen peroxide – gently rub to remove feces and urine stains
clean fur with a washcloth and warm soapy water
Monday, January 4, 2010
TIPS TO CARE YOUR DOG IN WINTERS
Winter pet care:
* Brush your dog regularly. The air in most houses becomes dry during the colder months, which depletes moisture from dog skin and fur. Brushing will improve skin, coat and blood circulation.
* A thick-coated dog typically needs grooming in cold weather. The fur can get wet and matted, making it an irritant. Clean fur lofts and holds air, thus helping the animal stay warm.
* Never shave your dog down to the skin in winter. Leave the coat longer for more warmth. When you bathe your dog, completely dry him before taking him out for a walk.
* Use omega fatty acid supplements during the winter, ideally starting several weeks before cold weather sets in, to help skin and coat.
* If your dog engages in a lot of outdoor activities, increase his food supply to help keep his coat thick and healthy.
* Brush your dog regularly. The air in most houses becomes dry during the colder months, which depletes moisture from dog skin and fur. Brushing will improve skin, coat and blood circulation.
* A thick-coated dog typically needs grooming in cold weather. The fur can get wet and matted, making it an irritant. Clean fur lofts and holds air, thus helping the animal stay warm.
* Never shave your dog down to the skin in winter. Leave the coat longer for more warmth. When you bathe your dog, completely dry him before taking him out for a walk.
* Use omega fatty acid supplements during the winter, ideally starting several weeks before cold weather sets in, to help skin and coat.
* If your dog engages in a lot of outdoor activities, increase his food supply to help keep his coat thick and healthy.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
DOG ODOUR - CAUSES AND HOW TO GET RID OF IT
causes of dog odour and steps to remove it -
1. Wash your dog properly - Too many people do not wash their dogs properly. This can actually make things worse. First, check the dog over thoroughly for any obvious stink sources such as something they rolled in or poop stuck in the fur. Once wet, using a gentle dog shampoo, lather the dog up good and proper. Finally, rinse, rinse, rinse to get all of the shampoo out or it will dry, itch, and cause the dog to produce excess skin oil.
2. Dry the dog thoroughly - It's not just oils and the things the dog rolled in that create dog odor. It's also bacteria and bacteria waste. These bacteria love wet animal fur and are able to live and reproduce quite happily in it. The dogs with thick coats, hit them with a blow dryer. Just make sure you set it on the coolest setting possible.
3. Dog breath - If bad enough, dog breath can make a dog and the house wreak like hell. There are several things you can do to help reduce this odor. The most important is to start a proper oral hygiene regimen. It is often recommended that you brush your dog's teeth once a day. If the dog isn't healthy, it probably won't smell healthy either.
4. Anal glands - secrete an ishy, musty smelling substance with the feces. Sometimes these glands get clogged. This can cause some serious pet odor. A vet or groomer can drain these glands and make Doggy smell pretty again.
5.Ear infections - If the ears look nasty or are stinky, take the dog to the vet. The dog might also just have a skin infection that is causing the smell. It could be a yeast infection, a bacterial infection, or an allergy that has caused an increase in the musty-smelling.
1. Wash your dog properly - Too many people do not wash their dogs properly. This can actually make things worse. First, check the dog over thoroughly for any obvious stink sources such as something they rolled in or poop stuck in the fur. Once wet, using a gentle dog shampoo, lather the dog up good and proper. Finally, rinse, rinse, rinse to get all of the shampoo out or it will dry, itch, and cause the dog to produce excess skin oil.
2. Dry the dog thoroughly - It's not just oils and the things the dog rolled in that create dog odor. It's also bacteria and bacteria waste. These bacteria love wet animal fur and are able to live and reproduce quite happily in it. The dogs with thick coats, hit them with a blow dryer. Just make sure you set it on the coolest setting possible.
3. Dog breath - If bad enough, dog breath can make a dog and the house wreak like hell. There are several things you can do to help reduce this odor. The most important is to start a proper oral hygiene regimen. It is often recommended that you brush your dog's teeth once a day. If the dog isn't healthy, it probably won't smell healthy either.
4. Anal glands - secrete an ishy, musty smelling substance with the feces. Sometimes these glands get clogged. This can cause some serious pet odor. A vet or groomer can drain these glands and make Doggy smell pretty again.
5.Ear infections - If the ears look nasty or are stinky, take the dog to the vet. The dog might also just have a skin infection that is causing the smell. It could be a yeast infection, a bacterial infection, or an allergy that has caused an increase in the musty-smelling.
Friday, November 20, 2009
FUR SHEDDING IN DOGS
Dog shedding is one of the most common problems faced by dog owners. It causes health problems and cleanliness issues, and is generally one of the more unpleasant aspects of owning a dog. However, with proper care, it is possible to control excessive shedding of dogs. Here are some tips to help you do so:
• Brushing: This is a perhaps the most important aspect of controlling excessive shedding. Brush your dog regularly, so that all the hair that the dog sheds can be easily collected. Hair that is loose but still attached will also get pulled out and this will reduce the day long shedding. If your dog has a very heavy coat and sheds excessively, brush him two, maybe even three times a day to prevent him from shedding all over the house.
• Food: One of the factors that causes shedding in dogs is consumption of the wrong kinds of foods. This disturbs their chemical balance in their bodies and leads to shedding. Consult your vet to find out the best food options to prevent excessive shedding.
• Supplements: There are essential oils present on the skin of the dog that help keeps it moist. When dogs undergo excessive shedding, they lose these essential oils rapidly, which leads to dry skin, which in turn leads to excessive shedding. Give your dog a fatty acid supplement to help maintain the required balance of essential oils in his body.
• Control Ticks and Fleas: Ticks or fleas on the bodies of the dogs can cause a lot of discomfort to the dogs because of the constant bites all over the bodies. Their bites are relatively itchy and dogs tend to scratch themselves a lot when they have ticks and fleas on them. This excessive scratching leads to a lot of hair loss as hair keeps getting pulled out as the dog scratches, and this leads to shedding wherever the dog may be. To reduce such shedding, ensure that your dog is completely free of ticks and fleas. Consult your vet for effective treatment, if your dog is infected by them.
• Bathing: Different breeds of dogs have different bathing requirements. Almost every breed of dog that has a light to moderate coat of fur should be bathed regularly. Especially in the summer, depending on the breed of the dog, bathing your dog on a regular basis will help control excessive shedding to a large extent. This is because moistening the skin helps prevent shedding caused by dry skin.
• Use the right brushes: There are different kinds of brushes available for different purposes. For instance, you can use a slicker brushes, and stripping blades effectively to control excessive shedding. Consult your vet to find out the right kind of brushes that can be used for your breed of dog and learn about their individual functions.
• Regular Check ups: Sometimes excessive shedding can be a symptom of a disease and regular check ups will ensure that your dog is in perfect health and that his shedding is natural.
• Brushing: This is a perhaps the most important aspect of controlling excessive shedding. Brush your dog regularly, so that all the hair that the dog sheds can be easily collected. Hair that is loose but still attached will also get pulled out and this will reduce the day long shedding. If your dog has a very heavy coat and sheds excessively, brush him two, maybe even three times a day to prevent him from shedding all over the house.
• Food: One of the factors that causes shedding in dogs is consumption of the wrong kinds of foods. This disturbs their chemical balance in their bodies and leads to shedding. Consult your vet to find out the best food options to prevent excessive shedding.
• Supplements: There are essential oils present on the skin of the dog that help keeps it moist. When dogs undergo excessive shedding, they lose these essential oils rapidly, which leads to dry skin, which in turn leads to excessive shedding. Give your dog a fatty acid supplement to help maintain the required balance of essential oils in his body.
• Control Ticks and Fleas: Ticks or fleas on the bodies of the dogs can cause a lot of discomfort to the dogs because of the constant bites all over the bodies. Their bites are relatively itchy and dogs tend to scratch themselves a lot when they have ticks and fleas on them. This excessive scratching leads to a lot of hair loss as hair keeps getting pulled out as the dog scratches, and this leads to shedding wherever the dog may be. To reduce such shedding, ensure that your dog is completely free of ticks and fleas. Consult your vet for effective treatment, if your dog is infected by them.
• Bathing: Different breeds of dogs have different bathing requirements. Almost every breed of dog that has a light to moderate coat of fur should be bathed regularly. Especially in the summer, depending on the breed of the dog, bathing your dog on a regular basis will help control excessive shedding to a large extent. This is because moistening the skin helps prevent shedding caused by dry skin.
• Use the right brushes: There are different kinds of brushes available for different purposes. For instance, you can use a slicker brushes, and stripping blades effectively to control excessive shedding. Consult your vet to find out the right kind of brushes that can be used for your breed of dog and learn about their individual functions.
• Regular Check ups: Sometimes excessive shedding can be a symptom of a disease and regular check ups will ensure that your dog is in perfect health and that his shedding is natural.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
cat bath
Cats generally keep themselves clean, and therefore should not be bathed any more often than is absolutely necessary. But they sometimes get especially dirty, get bombarded by fleas or ticks, or get into substances that are toxic or otherwise harmful. On such occasions, it is a good idea to bathe your cat. Here's how to keep your feline fresh and lovely as painlessly as possible.
Decide whether your cat really needs a bath. There may be other ways, such as brushing the cat combing or even just rubbing down with a cloth.
Get at least two people involved in the washing of your cat, especially when your cat is rather strong and can kick its way out of your hands. One person must hold both arms and legs and a good idea would be to hold the cats jaw so it can't open its mouth and bite you. Hold your cat firmly so it cannot wriggle out from your grip.
Trim all nails before even attempting to wash a cat - it will reduce scratching.
Put a rubber mat in the tub or use a towel. Fill the tub no more than 4-5 inches with warm water.
Fill the tub and a seperate bucket before bringing your cat into the bathroom. This avoids running water around your cat which stresses them out.
Have shampoo and a small wash cloth ready. You also might want to have a helper - one to hold the cat, one to wash. Have two towels that you will dry your cat with ready as well.
Comb the fur thoroughly before you put the cat in the water, especially if the cat's a long-haired breed. If any knots are present, it will be next to impossible to remove them once the fur is wet.
Talk quietly around your cat and keep a good grip on the neck or shoulders. Sometimes cats will try to get out of the tub. If they prefer to only have two of their feet in the water, face them towards the back of the tub and let them stand on two feet.
Choose an appropriate shampoo for the job. Check with your veterinarian to select the shampoo best suited to your cat's condition. Human shampoos are not pH adjusted to cat's skin and medicated shampoos may be too harsh or toxic. If your cat has fleas, use flea shampoo (made specifically for cats).
Soak the cat from the neck down, using the wash cloth. Use a little bit of shampoo and with the water, wash your cat from the neck, body, legs, belly and tail. Be sure to not get shampoo in their eyes, nose, mouth, or ears.
Rinse thoroughly after shampooing with the water in the tub, and then allow the tub to drain and rinse two more times with the water from the bucket; you want all the soap out of the coat.
Have two towels ready for drying. Drain the water from around the cat and press as much water out of the coat before you wrap in the towel. Rub gently with one towel. The first towel will get pretty soaked, so you should switch to the drier one and finish drying until the cat is just damp. It helps if you warm the towels in the dryer first.
Finish the drying:
Short-haired cats can finish drying themselves in the bathroom as long as they're away from drafts.
For long-haired cats, you will have to use a comb and some more towels. Long hairs will become matted more easily when their fur is wet and it can help to comb them as they dry
Alternate Shower Techniques
Recognize that it may be helpful to wash your cat in a shower stall (if you have one with a door, not curtain). The cat is essentially trapped in the shower without you having to hold on. Make sure the cat has good traction (a small towel in the bathtub will help if you have no rubber mat) or you will have a panic-stricken cat that is likely to seek safety in height by trying to climb you like a tree.
Buy a hose adapter for your bathroom sink and a hose long enough to reach over the shower door and back down to the shower floor. Or, get a hand held spray shower and a Y-adapter to connect it to your regular shower head.
Hose your cat down, lather up, hose down to rinse, then proceed with drying. Some cats seem to actually enjoy the massage settings on hand held showers, especially on the back of the neck and down the ridge of the back.
Some cats can be unnerved by running water. Try to run a bath when they are distracted and make sure to set aside rinse water in separate refilled containers. This tends to cut down on the scratching, also.
Use separate bathing stations even with cats that have never been bathed before. Have a couple buckets filled with warm water. Dip the cat in and using a wash cloth make sure the cat is entirely wet, then soap the cat down. Next, put the cat in another bucket to rinse until soap is gone. Make sure to use warm enough water and to dry thoroughly. Cats are prone to pneumonia, bronchitis and other breathing problems associated with temperature changes.
Dry Shampoo Option
Dust the cat with cornstarch. Gently pet the cat to thoroughly rub the cornstarch into its fur. Let the cat clean itself with its normal grooming routine. This technique is far less traumatic than using water, and works especially well if the cat is greasy, however, use it for non-toxic dirt only. Do not use this technique if the cat has gotten into something poisonous.
Tips
Cats' natural body temperatures are several degrees above a human's, so what feels luke-warm to you can feel uncomfortably cold to a cat. It can be less uncomfortable for a cat if you bathe it in fairly hot water and steam up the bathroom so warm air is circulating. (Imagine if someone suddenly tossed you into a tepid swimming pool. Or how it feels when you finish with your shower and open the door, letting the regular air in. Feels freezing against your wet skin, right?)
Your cat has its own personality. While these are all good suggestions, be aware of your cat's reactions, and be prepared to adjust tactics accordingly.
Try giving your cat a treat after the bath; it might improve the tension for future baths!
The younger you start bathing your cat, the easier it will be as the cat will become familiar with it as part of its routine.
Brave souls may find it easier to put on old clothing and sit in the tub holding the cat and letting someone else actually bathe the cat.
When you have more time, run a very shallow warm bath.Pet the cat, and give it a treat if it is food oriented. Continue at this depth until the cat does not panic and try to escape. Repeat daily, until the cat treats it as part of a routine, gradually increasing the depth until it is accepting standing in 4-5 ins of water. As a final step, have someone else reassure the cat whilst you use your hand to gently make waves in the water. This can take a week, or months depending on the cat, but it is worth the perseverance to know that you can safely bathe your pet when necessary.
If all else fails, take your cat to a reputable, professional pet groomer or a vet for their washing. They will be able to use techniques to keep the cat calm.
Some cats will do better in an empty tub with water being poured on rather then being put into a tub with water already in it.
If you are giving your cat a flea bath, wet the area around its neck first. Fleas will try to escape to the dry areas of the cat, which can mean a mass exodus of fleas to the head and face while you are bathing. A wet neck will keep them off the head, and in contact with the water and flea shampoo.
You may find it helpful, if you have a cat that is very attached to you and is not scratching but is just scared, to simply take a shower with your animal. Wear a heavy sweatshirt and allow the cat to sit on your chest. The cat will most likely bury its face in your neck and feel calmed. Wash and rinse your cat as normal.
Another idea is to place your cat and water in a small plastic dishwashing tub (about 12x18 in.) and stand over it. This way, you can more easily control the cat, and it is harder for it to escape. I've found that never letting my cat escape on its own, and only letting it go when I am done has helped it be calm and cooperative during baths. It also helps to make bath time quick and gentle.
An oven rack can be used to give the cat something to hold onto. This reduces the chance of you being scratched and makes the cat feel better.
If you have a litter box in the same room as you are bathing the cat, remove it! Sometimes after the cat is put in the bath and it happens to escape it may go to the litter box and soon your floor will be covered in litter!
The YouTube video "How to Wash a Cat", though originally intended for comedy, has a lot of good tips in it.
Warnings
Make sure the outside air temperature is over 70 degrees and at low humidity. Bathed cats can, and will, contract pneumonia, as they are easily chilled. Keep bathed cat indoors in warm family room for 12 hours if weather won't cooperate.
Watch out for cat claws if you decide to bathe your cat. Wearing a thick, long-sleeved sweater is one way to avoid getting scratched badly while bathing your cat. Be patient and gentle; it is natural for cats to fight the water because it simply doesn't feel right.
If you don't know how to properly hold a cat by the scruff, don't do it. Your cat may choke.
Don't put shampoo on their head. It could get in their eyes.
Be aware that you shouldn't bathe your cat frequently, this technique is just in case your pet is really dirty.
Although some cats may accept the bath without great complaints, they may get nervous or angry or too scared when you try to dry them. Be careful during this last phase-- shut the door of the bathroom or the cat will run away all wet, keep it calm or it will urinate, creating a big mess.
If you find your cat objects too much to a bath by hissing at you and trying to escape, then forget the bath. Use a wet washcloth instead. It removes the outer dirt, and cleans well. At your local pet store, you can find treated cloths that need no water to be used to groom the cat. They even have a pleasant scent.
Cats absorb chemicals through their skin, so they must be very well rinsed. Rinse until you see only clear water running off the cat.
Make sure to use specially formulated shampoo for cats. Your hair is different from that of your cat, and your shampoo will only irritate your cat's skin.
Do not use flea shampoos for dogs on your cat. They may contain ingredients that are harmful to your cat. Be sure to read the label on all products, and be aware that some flea products formulated for cats may still cause a reaction.
Do not bathe your pet any more than once every two weeks. Excessive bathing may remove protective oils from its fur, making it appear dull, and reducing the fur's natural efficiency against the elements.
Never use sinks that are freestanding because your cat might jump and slip from being wet and hurt itself.
Never get soap in your cat's eyes. As a safeguard, put 1 to 2 drops of eye lubricant into each eye just before bathing. You can use any human labelled eye drops that are indicated as a non-medicated ocular lubricant, often used for dry eye syndrome. They are available as over the counter (OTC) products at most drug stores.
Similarly, do not get soapy water into your cat's ears. To minimize the risk of creating an ear infection (otitis externa), put a pledget of cotton in each ear. Don't forget to take them out at the end of the bath. The cotton may also reduce the noise and make your job easier. At the very least your cat may be pre-occupied with the cotton in its ears and remain distracted. If your cats ears are particularly filthy, gently wipe the insides with a warm, damp wash cloth with no soap. Cat's ears contain protective waxes and oils that should not be removed.
Listen for sounds of unhappiness. These sounds include hissing, growling, breathing hard, sneezing, crying, and mewing.
Avoid using a blow dryer on a short-haired cat or kitten as it may burn them and/or cause more trauma. Short-haired cats can bathe themselves dry.
Never force your cat's head under the water! To wash their head and face, use a wash cloth.
Things You'll Need
Shampoo
Conditioner
2 towels
Brush/comb
Your cat
A bath
Warm water (Not luke warm. Almost hot!)
A jumper or a long sleeved shirt
2 or more people
Decide whether your cat really needs a bath. There may be other ways, such as brushing the cat combing or even just rubbing down with a cloth.
Get at least two people involved in the washing of your cat, especially when your cat is rather strong and can kick its way out of your hands. One person must hold both arms and legs and a good idea would be to hold the cats jaw so it can't open its mouth and bite you. Hold your cat firmly so it cannot wriggle out from your grip.
Trim all nails before even attempting to wash a cat - it will reduce scratching.
Put a rubber mat in the tub or use a towel. Fill the tub no more than 4-5 inches with warm water.
Fill the tub and a seperate bucket before bringing your cat into the bathroom. This avoids running water around your cat which stresses them out.
Have shampoo and a small wash cloth ready. You also might want to have a helper - one to hold the cat, one to wash. Have two towels that you will dry your cat with ready as well.
Comb the fur thoroughly before you put the cat in the water, especially if the cat's a long-haired breed. If any knots are present, it will be next to impossible to remove them once the fur is wet.
Talk quietly around your cat and keep a good grip on the neck or shoulders. Sometimes cats will try to get out of the tub. If they prefer to only have two of their feet in the water, face them towards the back of the tub and let them stand on two feet.
Choose an appropriate shampoo for the job. Check with your veterinarian to select the shampoo best suited to your cat's condition. Human shampoos are not pH adjusted to cat's skin and medicated shampoos may be too harsh or toxic. If your cat has fleas, use flea shampoo (made specifically for cats).
Soak the cat from the neck down, using the wash cloth. Use a little bit of shampoo and with the water, wash your cat from the neck, body, legs, belly and tail. Be sure to not get shampoo in their eyes, nose, mouth, or ears.
Rinse thoroughly after shampooing with the water in the tub, and then allow the tub to drain and rinse two more times with the water from the bucket; you want all the soap out of the coat.
Have two towels ready for drying. Drain the water from around the cat and press as much water out of the coat before you wrap in the towel. Rub gently with one towel. The first towel will get pretty soaked, so you should switch to the drier one and finish drying until the cat is just damp. It helps if you warm the towels in the dryer first.
Finish the drying:
Short-haired cats can finish drying themselves in the bathroom as long as they're away from drafts.
For long-haired cats, you will have to use a comb and some more towels. Long hairs will become matted more easily when their fur is wet and it can help to comb them as they dry
Alternate Shower Techniques
Recognize that it may be helpful to wash your cat in a shower stall (if you have one with a door, not curtain). The cat is essentially trapped in the shower without you having to hold on. Make sure the cat has good traction (a small towel in the bathtub will help if you have no rubber mat) or you will have a panic-stricken cat that is likely to seek safety in height by trying to climb you like a tree.
Buy a hose adapter for your bathroom sink and a hose long enough to reach over the shower door and back down to the shower floor. Or, get a hand held spray shower and a Y-adapter to connect it to your regular shower head.
Hose your cat down, lather up, hose down to rinse, then proceed with drying. Some cats seem to actually enjoy the massage settings on hand held showers, especially on the back of the neck and down the ridge of the back.
Some cats can be unnerved by running water. Try to run a bath when they are distracted and make sure to set aside rinse water in separate refilled containers. This tends to cut down on the scratching, also.
Use separate bathing stations even with cats that have never been bathed before. Have a couple buckets filled with warm water. Dip the cat in and using a wash cloth make sure the cat is entirely wet, then soap the cat down. Next, put the cat in another bucket to rinse until soap is gone. Make sure to use warm enough water and to dry thoroughly. Cats are prone to pneumonia, bronchitis and other breathing problems associated with temperature changes.
Dry Shampoo Option
Dust the cat with cornstarch. Gently pet the cat to thoroughly rub the cornstarch into its fur. Let the cat clean itself with its normal grooming routine. This technique is far less traumatic than using water, and works especially well if the cat is greasy, however, use it for non-toxic dirt only. Do not use this technique if the cat has gotten into something poisonous.
Tips
Cats' natural body temperatures are several degrees above a human's, so what feels luke-warm to you can feel uncomfortably cold to a cat. It can be less uncomfortable for a cat if you bathe it in fairly hot water and steam up the bathroom so warm air is circulating. (Imagine if someone suddenly tossed you into a tepid swimming pool. Or how it feels when you finish with your shower and open the door, letting the regular air in. Feels freezing against your wet skin, right?)
Your cat has its own personality. While these are all good suggestions, be aware of your cat's reactions, and be prepared to adjust tactics accordingly.
Try giving your cat a treat after the bath; it might improve the tension for future baths!
The younger you start bathing your cat, the easier it will be as the cat will become familiar with it as part of its routine.
Brave souls may find it easier to put on old clothing and sit in the tub holding the cat and letting someone else actually bathe the cat.
When you have more time, run a very shallow warm bath.Pet the cat, and give it a treat if it is food oriented. Continue at this depth until the cat does not panic and try to escape. Repeat daily, until the cat treats it as part of a routine, gradually increasing the depth until it is accepting standing in 4-5 ins of water. As a final step, have someone else reassure the cat whilst you use your hand to gently make waves in the water. This can take a week, or months depending on the cat, but it is worth the perseverance to know that you can safely bathe your pet when necessary.
If all else fails, take your cat to a reputable, professional pet groomer or a vet for their washing. They will be able to use techniques to keep the cat calm.
Some cats will do better in an empty tub with water being poured on rather then being put into a tub with water already in it.
If you are giving your cat a flea bath, wet the area around its neck first. Fleas will try to escape to the dry areas of the cat, which can mean a mass exodus of fleas to the head and face while you are bathing. A wet neck will keep them off the head, and in contact with the water and flea shampoo.
You may find it helpful, if you have a cat that is very attached to you and is not scratching but is just scared, to simply take a shower with your animal. Wear a heavy sweatshirt and allow the cat to sit on your chest. The cat will most likely bury its face in your neck and feel calmed. Wash and rinse your cat as normal.
Another idea is to place your cat and water in a small plastic dishwashing tub (about 12x18 in.) and stand over it. This way, you can more easily control the cat, and it is harder for it to escape. I've found that never letting my cat escape on its own, and only letting it go when I am done has helped it be calm and cooperative during baths. It also helps to make bath time quick and gentle.
An oven rack can be used to give the cat something to hold onto. This reduces the chance of you being scratched and makes the cat feel better.
If you have a litter box in the same room as you are bathing the cat, remove it! Sometimes after the cat is put in the bath and it happens to escape it may go to the litter box and soon your floor will be covered in litter!
The YouTube video "How to Wash a Cat", though originally intended for comedy, has a lot of good tips in it.
Warnings
Make sure the outside air temperature is over 70 degrees and at low humidity. Bathed cats can, and will, contract pneumonia, as they are easily chilled. Keep bathed cat indoors in warm family room for 12 hours if weather won't cooperate.
Watch out for cat claws if you decide to bathe your cat. Wearing a thick, long-sleeved sweater is one way to avoid getting scratched badly while bathing your cat. Be patient and gentle; it is natural for cats to fight the water because it simply doesn't feel right.
If you don't know how to properly hold a cat by the scruff, don't do it. Your cat may choke.
Don't put shampoo on their head. It could get in their eyes.
Be aware that you shouldn't bathe your cat frequently, this technique is just in case your pet is really dirty.
Although some cats may accept the bath without great complaints, they may get nervous or angry or too scared when you try to dry them. Be careful during this last phase-- shut the door of the bathroom or the cat will run away all wet, keep it calm or it will urinate, creating a big mess.
If you find your cat objects too much to a bath by hissing at you and trying to escape, then forget the bath. Use a wet washcloth instead. It removes the outer dirt, and cleans well. At your local pet store, you can find treated cloths that need no water to be used to groom the cat. They even have a pleasant scent.
Cats absorb chemicals through their skin, so they must be very well rinsed. Rinse until you see only clear water running off the cat.
Make sure to use specially formulated shampoo for cats. Your hair is different from that of your cat, and your shampoo will only irritate your cat's skin.
Do not use flea shampoos for dogs on your cat. They may contain ingredients that are harmful to your cat. Be sure to read the label on all products, and be aware that some flea products formulated for cats may still cause a reaction.
Do not bathe your pet any more than once every two weeks. Excessive bathing may remove protective oils from its fur, making it appear dull, and reducing the fur's natural efficiency against the elements.
Never use sinks that are freestanding because your cat might jump and slip from being wet and hurt itself.
Never get soap in your cat's eyes. As a safeguard, put 1 to 2 drops of eye lubricant into each eye just before bathing. You can use any human labelled eye drops that are indicated as a non-medicated ocular lubricant, often used for dry eye syndrome. They are available as over the counter (OTC) products at most drug stores.
Similarly, do not get soapy water into your cat's ears. To minimize the risk of creating an ear infection (otitis externa), put a pledget of cotton in each ear. Don't forget to take them out at the end of the bath. The cotton may also reduce the noise and make your job easier. At the very least your cat may be pre-occupied with the cotton in its ears and remain distracted. If your cats ears are particularly filthy, gently wipe the insides with a warm, damp wash cloth with no soap. Cat's ears contain protective waxes and oils that should not be removed.
Listen for sounds of unhappiness. These sounds include hissing, growling, breathing hard, sneezing, crying, and mewing.
Avoid using a blow dryer on a short-haired cat or kitten as it may burn them and/or cause more trauma. Short-haired cats can bathe themselves dry.
Never force your cat's head under the water! To wash their head and face, use a wash cloth.
Things You'll Need
Shampoo
Conditioner
2 towels
Brush/comb
Your cat
A bath
Warm water (Not luke warm. Almost hot!)
A jumper or a long sleeved shirt
2 or more people
Thursday, January 22, 2009
how to bathe a dog
it is not healthy to bathe a dog frequently. A part of it is true and other part is not. While swimming in natural water is a good exercise for a dog and can be permitted according to its tastes and climate, using soaps or shampoos on dogs regularly can be hazardous. Especially human shampoos can cause an imbalance on dog's skin and may make its skin dry and itchy. However, dog-specific shampoos are much better and are recommended to be used only once every several weeks. The medicated shampoos meant to cure particular skin-disorders are different and the frequency of their use depends on the condition of the dog. It is best to bathe the dog only when its coat becomes greasy . Dog odor is also a sign that your dog needs a bath. Mud tends to dry up and fall off the dog's coat by itself as it rubs it on.
To bathe the dog, lay a blanket or the floor and keep two towels, dog shampoo, dog conditioner and a washcloth ready by the bathtub. Keep the dog's brush, comb and trash bag on the blanket. Special super-absorbent towels are quite helpful in drying the dog quickly. If the dog's coat is matted, brush him first to untangle the knots and then bathe him. The dogs that get too scared in the tub and keep jumping around, you might try to give him the shower with the hand-held showerheads. Being able to stand on firm ground, will keep him feeling safe. Inside the tub, you can put a non-slippery rubber bath mat to keep your pooch from slipping. Large dogs can be bathed in the garden using a hose and a bucket, especially when the weather is hot.
Don't dump water on dog's face and use a wash cloth instead, for the ears of the dog shouldn't get too wet inside and he generally gets too scared when doused over the head and may get aggressive. Conditioner helps to prevent tangles, in the dogs with long hair. Good shampooing, rinsing and condition of the dog's skin and coat keep lice and fleas away from dogs. Deodorants can be used to keep off the body odor and keep your dog smelling fresh and healthy. There are shampoos that claim to be gentle yet effective, perform antibacterial action, have pearlescent whiteners for that shiny sparkling whiteness in the coat and gentle aloe Vera and tea tree oil to keep the skin healthy. Dogs with black and dark colored coats can use special shampoos with them that enhance their natural shine. After lathering and cleaning the dog, rinsing is very important for any shampoo residue may cause skin irritation. Shampoos mild for eyes are recommended. Dogs often give a good shake, soaking you and the room. You can dry your pet using one end of a first towel over his head and drying him with the other end. The second towel is used to pick him up. After drying, lay your dog on the blanket and keep him there until he dries completely.
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