OCULAR DISCHARGE - DOG AND CAT

It can be defined as abnormal secretion on or around the eye or eyes. This is also known as lacrimation and ocular secretion. The secretions can be watery or mucus in nature. An abnormal overflow of tears down the face is called as epiphora. Dogs and cats both get affected with this and onset depends on the cause. Outdoor animals are prone to infectious cause of conjunctivitis.

UVEITIS - DOGS AND CATS

Uveitis is defined as inflammation of some or the entire uveal tract including iris, cilliary body, and choroid. It may be associated with inflammation of adjacent structures such as retina, vitreous sclera, and the cornea. Clinic signs of uveitis in dogs and cats include spasm of the eyelids, thickening of the inner eyelids, and redness of the white of the eye, a thickened white film on the cornea, constricted pupil, and blood in the intraocular fluid. Uveitis can be present in just one or both eyes. Uveitis in dogs and cats is a secondary problem, precipitated by a primary cause of intraocular vascular damage. Primary causes include: infection, trauma, auto-immune disease, parasites, and cancer. Diagnostics in dogs with uveitis should include blood chemistry, complete blood count, and heart worm test to begin with. In cats, blood chemistry and complete blood count should be run, but should also include blood tests for immunodeficiency virus (FIV), feline leukaemia, and toxoplasmosis. Uveitis is a medical emergency that causes a great deal of pain, and can quickly lead to irreversible blindness. In treating uveitis, once an underlying cause is identified, specific treatment will be directed at the underlying disease process.

CHERRY EYE

it is prolapse of gland of the third eyelid. It can be seen in dogs and cats. It is commonly observed in young dogs and is inherited in nature. It is due to weakness of the attachment of gland of the third eyelid. It is usually seen as an oval mass which protrude behind the edge of third eyelid. It could be either unilateral or bilateral. The treatment is surgical replacement of the gland

Degenerative joint disease in dogs and cats

Degenerative joint disease, also known as osteoarthritis is a very common condition in both cats and dogs, and is often seen in older animals. In this disease the cartilage surrounding the joint changes deteriorates as a result of wear and tear. The most common affected areas of the body are the hip, spine knees, elbows and wrist joints. Dogs tend to be more susceptible to degenerative joint disease than cats but certain breeds i.e. Labrador, German shepherd, or Golden retrievers suffer more from joint and bone problems. This disease is manageable, if treated early. Symptoms vary from reduced level of activity difficulty in getting up, running, jumping, climbing stairs, stiff-legged gait, lameness, limping, cries or whines in pain when the affected joint is touched, sensitive to cold weather, lethargy. The causes include: excessive wear and tear on the joints, trauma, and obesity, dislocation of the shoulder or kneecap. The diagnosis is based on the symptoms, a thorough examination, x-rays, contrast studies.

Hypothermia

Hypothermia is a lowering of the core body temperature below the dog’s and cat’s normal 101.5-102.5 temperature. A first reaction to the lowering of temperature is to shiver. Shivering increases muscle activity, which in turn increase heat production. Mild hypothermia causes an increase in blood pressure and heart rate, but if the time and severity of heat loss continues, heart rate and blood pressure decline and cardiac arrest can occur. Severe hypothermia leads to respiratory depression, lethargy, lack of coordination, paralysis, and collapse. Treatment for hypothermia involves rapid warming of the body. In mild cases, heating pads, hot water bottles, or a warm water bath will do the trick, but severe cases require need veterinary attention immediately.

TRAINING COMMON BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS

House breaking – it is not a common problem for a cat owner but in some cases it may be quite serious. Housebreaking means that cat always goes outside for urination or defecation or uses the litter box for this purpose. Like dogs, we can say a mistake or slips as a cat is either housebroken or it is not. Feral cats defecate or urinate at the same places to mark their territory. These cats do not scratch dirt over their faeces or urine like domestic cats and leave the faecal matter exposed. Toms are prone to spay urine over objects within their territory, whenever they sense a female cats in estrous. These cats scatter the faecal material in the nearby areas of original deposits. This behaviour is used as a form of communication by cats. If a domestic cat goes to outdoors to defecate or urinate, may use this material to mark its territory and to make sexual communication. Rectifying the behaviour – a.) Litter box – indoor cats, which do not have access to outside, should be provided with litter box. It should be cleaned everyday (pregnant woman and children should never handle cat faeces or cat litter, as they can contract disease, which may lead to abortion or can deform unborn children). Cats are clean in nature and they prefer clean areas for defecation and urination. It is recommended that a litter box should be available for each cat and boxes should be kept in the same place in a consistent manner. Boxes should be placed in those areas where cats can have their privacy. The area should be disinfected on a regular basis. Different types of boxes & litter are available in the market. b) Diet Scheduling- it is an important point to he considered that is diet and timing for meals should be kept consistent as frequent change in diet will result in upset stomach. Sudden change from dry food to canned food will result in indigestion and the consistency of faecal matter. The diet should be changed gradually to avoid the drastic change in the timing of defecation. Fresh water should be available for your cat, specifically if she is on dry food. You must discuss this with your Veterinarian to develop a diet schedule for your cat. Clawing – it is an inborn behaviour and is difficult to train the cats. Declawing can be done on any adult cat and it is a surgical procedure. Even declawed cat will exhibit “clawing” behaviour. For most cats only the front claws need to be removed as these are primary source of damage. This surgical procedure should be done at the age of 6 months and cats quickly recover from the operation. Declawing does not change any behaviour patterns and will still claw your things. The only difference appears to be that they cannot cause damage. I suggest that only house cats can be declawed as outdoor cats need their claws for defensive and offensive purposes. If you don’t want declawing but want to protect your furniture etc., then you must provide a scratch post to your cat. Noises - owners generally complained about cats howling, meowing, crying or screeching. The cat may cry even in the absence of owner and then it is a nuisance for neighbours. Crying behaviour is often a sign of frustration and is an attention seeking behaviour. In such cases you may take your cat on a lap or pet your cat. It is a highly reinforcing situation for your cat and may exhibit this behaviour quiet often. In such conditions you should try to ignore your cat that is don’t look at it, don’t touch it or don’t talk to it. Heat periods - During estrous, the female cats may cry or wail all day and night. The only practical way to stop this behaviour is to spay a female cat surgically. Likely the toms are equally obnoxious as he will spray urine all over the place to mark his scent. Even they will howl but you cannot train them. The best and only way is to neuter or castrate them and this operation does not have any risk at healthy animals. Neutering will solve problem of crying and is also a good tool for birth control programme as so many unwanted kittens are born every year. Neutering your cat is the best thing you can do for welfare of cats in this country.

Why are high fiber diets recommended for anal glad disease?

As the dog or cat is viewed from behind, anal glands are located on each side of and slightly below the anal opening, at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions. A tiny duct or tube leads under the skin to an opening directly beside the anus. Anal gland impactions, infections, and abscesses can occur. Here is how: For various reasons, such as the conformation of the animal, the thickness of the gland's secretions, or the softness of the stool, these glands and their ducts may become clogged, or 'impacted.' When this occurs, the animal will sit down on its rear quarters and drag its anal area across the floor or ground. This is called scooting. Both dogs and cats may lick the anal area excessively. Impacted anal glands are a very, very common problem for dogs, especially the smaller breeds. Pets with recurrent anal gland impactions are often placed on a high fiber diet. The high fiber makes the animal's stool more bulky. The stool will put more pressure on the anal glands and hopefully the glands will express themselves when the animal defecates.

MONSOON DISEASES OF DOGS AND CATS

MONSOON DISEASES OF DOGS AND CATS

Leptospirosis – It is a world wide problem and is an important cause of acute and chronic disease of dogs and other animals. This disease is more common in rainy seasons as warm and moist environment is favorable for organisms. This pathogen can survive for almost 6 months in standing and stagnant water. The pathogen penetrate intact or cut skin or mucus membrane, rapidly invade the blood stream to spread to all parts of the body. It is more common in dogs and rare in cats. The disease is more prevalent in urban dogs than suburban dogs and male dogs are more commonly affected. In dogs usually young dogs without passive maternal antibody and older dogs are more susceptible to disease.

History will reveal fever, stiffness, shivering, weakness, anorexia, vomiting, diarrhoea, dehydration, icterus and death. Physical examination findings include fever, weakness, anorexia, vomiting, tachypnea, hematemesis, melena, epistaxis, petechial and ecchymotic haemorrhage, icterus, conjunctivitis and hematuria.

The disease can be transmitted directly through infected urine, infected fetus or indirectly through exposure to a contaminated environment like soil, food, water and bedding. It can be diagnosed on the basis of complete blood count, serum biochemistry, serology, culture and sensitivity of body fluids. Treatment should be done properly as prognosis in acute severe disease is guarded.



Pneumonia – it can be caused by deep fungal infection and is more cmmon in dogs as compared to cats. Males are affected more often than females and younger animals are predisposed to the disease. Historicals findings will be fever, inappetance, weight loss, coughing, dyspnea and lameness. Physical examination will show depression, emaciation, cough and diarrhoea. Crackles are more commonly present in cats than in dogs.

The animal may contract this disease if exposed to soil rich in organic matter, bird droppings, sandy and alkaline soil with rainfall. Disease can be diagnosed on the basis of complete blood count, serum chemistry, urinalysis, serological testing, latex agglutination test, radiography, abdominal ultrasound, impression smears, fine needle aspirates and biopsy.



Pyoderma – it is bacterial infection of the skin. It is more common in dogs than in cats. The condition may occur due to allergy, parasite, fungal infection, trauma or foreign body. History will reveal acute or gradual onset of disease. It may be seasonal. Physical examination will reveal papules, pustules, crusts, alopecia, scaling, abscess and cellulitis. It can be diagnosed by CBC, serum chemistry profile, culture, cytology, skin scraping, skin biopsy etc. Treatment depends on the underlying cause. Steroids are contraindicated in this disease as it will increase resistance to the medicines.



Cryptococcosis – it is funagl infection and there is a predilection for upper respiratory tract, central nervous system, skin and eyes. It is more prevalent in cats than dogs. There is no age or sex predilection and young adult dogs are more comonly affected. Warm, humid climate increase the risk to exposure. Dog may be presented with weight loss, anorexia, lethargic, ophthalmic or neurologic signs. Cat may be presented with upper respiratorytract signs like sneezing, nasal discharge, swelling of the nose and skin lesions.

Physical exmination on cat will reveal unilateral or bilateral nasal discharge, sneezing and firm swelling over nostrils. Disease can be diagnosed by radiograph (thoracic and nasal), cytology, latex agglutination test, fungal culture. Treatment should continue for one month even after resolution of clinical signs.



Haemorrhagic - gastroenteritis – It is also called as acute haemorrhagic enteritis, acute haemorrhagic enteropathy. Physical examination findings reveal discomfort on abdominal palpation, fluid filled bowel loops and distended colon. On rectal exmaination the fresh dark blood or jam like feces will be present. History will reveal anorexia, lethargy, vomiting and diarrhoea. It is usually seen in young dogs less than 5 years old age. it is more prevalent in city dogs and can be associated with other agents.

It can be diagnosed by CBC, serum biochemistry profile, fecal smear, microscopic examination and abdominal radiographs. The animal should not be given any food for atleast 24-48 hours and should be treated with electrolytes to stabilise the condition. Once vomiting is stopped small amounts of bland, low fat, loe fibre food should be offered and should be continued for several days. Recovery in most cases is usually rapid and complete over 1 to 2 days.



Myiasis – it is also known as maggot infestation and is defined as an infestation of living animals with the larvae or maggots. The animals living in temperate wet regions or in rainy season harbor flies causing myiasis. The wounded, solied, debilitated or weak animals may be predisposed. A foul putrid smell will make the owner aware to seek veterinary attention. On physical examination maggot infestation is found mostly around the eyes, nose, anus, genitalia, mouth or adjacent to wounded skin. Diagnosis can be made by direct visualization of maggots. Treatment involves clipping, cleaning and debridement of lesion and mechanical removal of larvae and management of wound.



Acute Moist Dermatitis – it is also known as hot spot, eczema or pyotraumatic dermatitis. It is an acute bacterial skin infection secondary to trauma that is self-inflicted in an attept to relieve pain. It is more prevalent in hot and humid weather, excess moisture. History will reveal acute onset of alopecic area that exudesserum and become matted with hair at the periphery. The lesion is pruritic and often very painful. Physical examination will show erosive to ulcerative lesion exuding serum and these lesions are most commonly found on face, neck and lateral thighs. It can be diagnosed by skin scraping and impression cytology. For treatment the lesion should be clipped, cleaned and dressing should be done to keep the flies away.

HEAT SROKE SIGNS

• Recognize Heat Stroke Signs


Recognizing the early signs of heat stroke may help prevent it from becoming life threatening. One should be watch for heavy panting, noisy breathing, and thick saliva. Heat stroke typically takes place when the dog's rectal temperature measures over 1040F. A normal dog's temperature ranges from 100 to 1020F.

As seen, there are so many ways to protect your dog and cat. Keeping fresh water always around and monitoring your dog and cat for signs of suffering from the heat are great ways to ensure your pet stays cool and well hydrated during the dog days of summer.

MY SECOND BOOK

My second book has been released and will be available in the market from next week....

CAT'S EXIT

this type of window can be made for the cats to exit and enter the house whenever they want. This is a good ine for semi-domestic cats, who want to relieve themselves outside or who hunt for the animals.

FIRST AID TO AN INJURED CAT

ARTICLE IN DOGS AND PUPS MAGAZINE

http://www.dogsandpups.net/jan10/etiquettes.htm

Kitty etiquettes- by Dr Geeta Sharma
Printer Friendly Version
A well-behaved cat is simply a darling! Here are a few common behavioural problems and the ways to tackle them.
Toilet training…
Though it is not a common problem for a cat owner but in some cases it may be quite serious. Housebreaking means that cat always goes outside for urination or defecation or uses the litter box for this purpose. Feral cats defecate or urinate at the same places to mark their territory. These cats do not scratch dirt over their faeces or urine like domestic cats and leave the faecal matter exposed. Toms are prone to spay urine over objects within their territory, whenever they sense a female cats in estrous. These cats scatter the faecal material in the nearby areas of original deposits. This behaviour is used as a form of communication by cats. If a domestic cat goes outdoors to defecate or urinate, he may use this material to mark his territory and to make sexual communication. Tips to follow: (a) Litter box – Indoor cats, who do not have access to outside, should be provided with a litter box. It should be cleaned everyday as cats are clean in nature and they prefer clean areas for defecation and urination. It is recommended that a litter box should be available for each cat and boxes should be kept in the same place in a consistent manner. Boxes should be placed in those areas where cats can have their privacy. The area should be disinfected on a regular basis. Choose from different types of boxes and litter available in the market. b) Diet scheduling- Diet and timing for meals should be kept consistent as frequent change in diet will result in upset stomach. Sudden change from dry food to canned food will result in indigestion and the consistency of faecal matter. The diet should be changed gradually to avoid the drastic change in the timing of defecation. Fresh water should be available for your cat, specifically if she is on dry food. Discuss this with your veterinarian to develop a diet schedule for your cat. The bedlam… Another very common problems pet parents experience is the howling, meowing, crying or screeching of cats. The cat may cry even in the absence of pet parents and it sometimes becomes a nuisance for neighbours. Tips to follow: Crying behaviour is often a sign of frustration and is an attention seeking behaviour. In such cases, you may take your cat on a lap or pet your cat. It is a highly reinforcing situation for your cat and he may exhibit this behaviour quiet often. In such conditions, you should try to ignore your cat that is don’t look at him, touch him or talk to him. Heat periods … During estrous, the female cats may cry or wail all day and night. Likely the toms are equally obnoxious as he will spray urine all over the place to mark his scent. Tips to follow: Neutering will solve problem of crying and is also a good tool for birth control programme as so many unwanted kittens are born every year. (Dr Geeta Sharma is MVSc (Surgery and Radiology) and MBA. She has been acclaimed by the ‘Limca Book of Records 2008’ for being the youngest female veterinarian to do the ovariohysterectomy (spaying) in female dogs in shortest span of time. She got training from Australian society ‘Vets Beyond Borders’. She can be contacted at geetasharmavet@gmail.com .

VOMITING IN DOG AND CAT

Vomiting is a very common problem in dogs and cats. There are many causes of vomiting. Primary or gastric causes of vomiting are those that are due to diseases of the stomach and upper intestinal tract. Secondary or non-gastric causes of vomiting are caused by diseases of other organs that cause an accumulation of toxic substances in the blood

The physical examination of the vomiting pet can also provide information to find out the possible cause. The presence of fever, abdominal pain, jaundice, anemia or abnormal masses in the abdomen will help the veterinarian make a more specific diagnosis. The mouth should be carefully examined as some foreign objects such as string can wind around the base of the tongue with the rest of the object extending into the stomach or small intestine.

There are numerous causes of vomiting like motion sickness, drugs, and gastrointestinal tract obstruction which can occur when a dog swallows a foreign object like a ball. Inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract due to inflammatory bowel disease, parvovirus, and parasites frequently produces vomiting. Diseases of the kidneys, liver, pancreas, and other vital organs, and even overeating may cause vomiting as well.

WHAT DO DOG AND CAT SEE?

Dogs are red-green color blind. They see a brighter and less detailed world when compared to humans. Peripheral vision is better than humans, but distance is not judged quite as well. Dogs excel at night vision and the detection of moving objects.Dogs and cats have vision with a very limited color spectrum. Blue is visible but red, green, and yellow all appear similar.Dogs are better able to detect movement.


Dogs have much better night vision for 2 reasons:


# The have more rods (which enable night vision).
# They have a structure called the Tapetum Lucidum
This is a reflective surface behind the retina that reflects light back through it.
Although it is commonly believed that dogs and cats see only in black and white, recent evidence suggests that animals may have some degree of useful color vision. The perception of color is determined by the presence of cone photoreceptors within the retina. These cone cells function in bright light conditions and comprise approximately 20% of the photoreceptors in the central retina of the dog. In humans, the central retina is 100% cones. Behavioral tests in dogs suggest that they can distinguish red and blue colors but often confuse green and red.

CAT SNEEZING - CAUSES

The most common cause of excessive cat sneezing is an upper respiratory infection. Most sneezing infections are caused either by the Parainfluenza virus or the Adenovirus. These viral infections are highly contagious and can lead to a number of symptoms including excess mucus production, swollen eyes and glands, coughing and excessive sneezing. Cat sneezing infections are caused by bacteria such as Bordatella and Adeno-2. Not only do these bacteria cause sneezing in cats, but they can also similarly infect the human system as well.
If you are having a difficult time figuring out what is causing your cat to sneeze, you will want to visit your veterinarian. This will probably be the easiest and most accurate way of diagnosing your cat’s sneezing problem.

types of food for your cat

Types of Cat Foods
The three main types of cat foods are dry, soft-moist and canned products
1. Dry food
Dry products consist of crunchy kibbles, which help reduce the build-up of plaque and tartar on a cat’s teeth. Dry foods also have the advantage of staying fresh longer than soft-moist and canned products once the package is opened.
2. Soft-Moist food
Soft-moist cat foods generally offer higher palatability as compared to dry diets, are convenient to serve and store easily.
3. Canned Diets
These diets have the highest palatability when compared to the dry and soft-moist products.

HOW TO BATHE YOUR CAT

Cats do not require frequent bathing, as they keep themselves well-groomed. However, occasional baths once a month is necessary to maintain hygiene.

Before starting the bathing process, make sure to trim the nails of the cat. This would reduce the risk of scratching. Brush the cat thoroughly, especially if it is long haired before giving bath to the cat.
Once everything has been arranged, its time to get your cat. Most cats hate water, so do not let your cat know what is going to happen.
Bathing
In one single liquid motion, shut the door of the bathroom, step into the shower, close the sliding doors, and drop the cat into the water.
Make sure you place a rubber mat in the tub. Firstly, dip a cloth in warm water and wipe the area around your cat's eyes. Put a few drops of mineral oil into the cat's eyes, which will protect the eyes from soap.
Select a good-quality cat shampoo for your cat's bath. If you think your cat might have a few fleas, use flea shampoo. If your cat has long hair, you can buy cat shampoo with conditioner, which will help keep his hair from tangling.
To divert its attention from bathing, the best thing would be to talk to your cat.
After you've washed your cat, blot his tail and legs with a paper towel, as these areas tend to absorb a lot of water. Then take your cat out of the sink and wrap it in a towel.

Rabies - dogs and cats

Although well-known vaccination programs rabies has helped to make the disease less common in domestic dogs and cats. However, it is important to be familiar of the symptoms of rabies in cats nonetheless, as many wild animals can be infected, and can easily transmit the disease to you or your cat if you are not prepared.
Rabies is a viral, zoonotic disease. In layman’s terms, this means that rabies is a type of virus that is transmissible to humans that affects the brain. Rabies is most commonly spread from infected animals to humans and other animals in the form of a bite. Left untreated, Rabies is almost always fatal to both humans and animals.
Rabies infection can spread through foxes, raccoons, skunks, wolves, coyotes and bats as well. These animals are highly susceptible to the virus. By contrast, cats, humans and dogs are naturally more resistant to the disease, and it is estimated that only about 15% of bites from affected animals will result in the rabies virus in humans and domestic animals. However, because rabies is almost always fatal, any bite to you or your animal from one of these common sources should be reported to your doctor or veterinarian so that appropriate medical care can be provided.
Most cats that become infected with rabies have been bitten by one of these wild animals, usually in the course of hunting or fighting. The rabies virus is shed at high levels in saliva, and after being bitten the virus begins to spread through the nerves of the newly infected animal, moving towards the brain. Rabies is a slow-moving disease, with the typical first onset of symptoms occurring 2-6 weeks after being infected in cats, and 3-6 weeks in people. In some cases however, the virus moves even slower, and animals have begun to show symptoms of rabies as long as 6 months after being bitten.
The first phase is known as the prodromal phase, where early non-specific symptoms may begin to manifest themselves. Affected dogs and cats may begin to be more nervous than usual, or show signs of increased anxiousness or apprehension. Behavior changes may occur, where normally friendly cats or dogs may become more withdrawn or easily annoyed, and normally aggressive cats or dogs may suddenly become quiet and affectionate. Spikes of fever may develop, leading to episodes of normal behavior and energy and lethargy and depression. Typically the prodromal phase lasts one to two days.
After the prodromal phase, the symptoms of cat rabies begin to get more specific, and the aniaml enters the furious phase. This phase can last from 1- 7 days, and animals will become progressively more restless and aggressive, and begin to react strongly to visual and auditory stimulus. They may become openly vicious, and disorientation may lead them to attack or bite without warning or provocation. As this phase progresses, seizures may begin to occur as the inflammation in the brain progresses, and depending on their severity some animals will die as a direct result of these seizures.
Within 2-4 days of the first signs being noted, animals may enter the paralytic stage. Nerves in the head and throat become impeded, and animals will begin to have the classic look of extensive salivation due to their inability to swallow. Labored breathing and trouble with the jaw may also develop, as the animals’ ability to breathe and have muscle control is destroyed by the virus. Eventually animals will die as a result of respiratory failure, as they struggle to breathe but no longer possess the muscle strength to do so.
Diagnosis of rabies is made via clinical signs and the vaccination history and clinical history of the pet. The only way to know for sure if an animal was affected with rabies is to submit the deceased animals brain to a laboratory to test for the disease.

cat bath

Cats generally keep themselves clean, and therefore should not be bathed any more often than is absolutely necessary. But they sometimes get especially dirty, get bombarded by fleas or ticks, or get into substances that are toxic or otherwise harmful. On such occasions, it is a good idea to bathe your cat. Here's how to keep your feline fresh and lovely as painlessly as possible.

Decide whether your cat really needs a bath. There may be other ways, such as brushing the cat combing or even just rubbing down with a cloth.

Get at least two people involved in the washing of your cat, especially when your cat is rather strong and can kick its way out of your hands. One person must hold both arms and legs and a good idea would be to hold the cats jaw so it can't open its mouth and bite you. Hold your cat firmly so it cannot wriggle out from your grip.
Trim all nails before even attempting to wash a cat - it will reduce scratching.
Put a rubber mat in the tub or use a towel. Fill the tub no more than 4-5 inches with warm water.
Fill the tub and a seperate bucket before bringing your cat into the bathroom. This avoids running water around your cat which stresses them out.
Have shampoo and a small wash cloth ready. You also might want to have a helper - one to hold the cat, one to wash. Have two towels that you will dry your cat with ready as well.
Comb the fur thoroughly before you put the cat in the water, especially if the cat's a long-haired breed. If any knots are present, it will be next to impossible to remove them once the fur is wet.
Talk quietly around your cat and keep a good grip on the neck or shoulders. Sometimes cats will try to get out of the tub. If they prefer to only have two of their feet in the water, face them towards the back of the tub and let them stand on two feet.
Choose an appropriate shampoo for the job. Check with your veterinarian to select the shampoo best suited to your cat's condition. Human shampoos are not pH adjusted to cat's skin and medicated shampoos may be too harsh or toxic. If your cat has fleas, use flea shampoo (made specifically for cats).

Soak the cat from the neck down, using the wash cloth. Use a little bit of shampoo and with the water, wash your cat from the neck, body, legs, belly and tail. Be sure to not get shampoo in their eyes, nose, mouth, or ears.

Rinse thoroughly after shampooing with the water in the tub, and then allow the tub to drain and rinse two more times with the water from the bucket; you want all the soap out of the coat.

Have two towels ready for drying. Drain the water from around the cat and press as much water out of the coat before you wrap in the towel. Rub gently with one towel. The first towel will get pretty soaked, so you should switch to the drier one and finish drying until the cat is just damp. It helps if you warm the towels in the dryer first.
Finish the drying:

Short-haired cats can finish drying themselves in the bathroom as long as they're away from drafts.
For long-haired cats, you will have to use a comb and some more towels. Long hairs will become matted more easily when their fur is wet and it can help to comb them as they dry
Alternate Shower Techniques
Recognize that it may be helpful to wash your cat in a shower stall (if you have one with a door, not curtain). The cat is essentially trapped in the shower without you having to hold on. Make sure the cat has good traction (a small towel in the bathtub will help if you have no rubber mat) or you will have a panic-stricken cat that is likely to seek safety in height by trying to climb you like a tree.
Buy a hose adapter for your bathroom sink and a hose long enough to reach over the shower door and back down to the shower floor. Or, get a hand held spray shower and a Y-adapter to connect it to your regular shower head.
Hose your cat down, lather up, hose down to rinse, then proceed with drying. Some cats seem to actually enjoy the massage settings on hand held showers, especially on the back of the neck and down the ridge of the back.
Some cats can be unnerved by running water. Try to run a bath when they are distracted and make sure to set aside rinse water in separate refilled containers. This tends to cut down on the scratching, also.
Use separate bathing stations even with cats that have never been bathed before. Have a couple buckets filled with warm water. Dip the cat in and using a wash cloth make sure the cat is entirely wet, then soap the cat down. Next, put the cat in another bucket to rinse until soap is gone. Make sure to use warm enough water and to dry thoroughly. Cats are prone to pneumonia, bronchitis and other breathing problems associated with temperature changes.

Dry Shampoo Option
Dust the cat with cornstarch. Gently pet the cat to thoroughly rub the cornstarch into its fur. Let the cat clean itself with its normal grooming routine. This technique is far less traumatic than using water, and works especially well if the cat is greasy, however, use it for non-toxic dirt only. Do not use this technique if the cat has gotten into something poisonous.

Tips
Cats' natural body temperatures are several degrees above a human's, so what feels luke-warm to you can feel uncomfortably cold to a cat. It can be less uncomfortable for a cat if you bathe it in fairly hot water and steam up the bathroom so warm air is circulating. (Imagine if someone suddenly tossed you into a tepid swimming pool. Or how it feels when you finish with your shower and open the door, letting the regular air in. Feels freezing against your wet skin, right?)

Your cat has its own personality. While these are all good suggestions, be aware of your cat's reactions, and be prepared to adjust tactics accordingly.
Try giving your cat a treat after the bath; it might improve the tension for future baths!
The younger you start bathing your cat, the easier it will be as the cat will become familiar with it as part of its routine.
Brave souls may find it easier to put on old clothing and sit in the tub holding the cat and letting someone else actually bathe the cat.
When you have more time, run a very shallow warm bath.Pet the cat, and give it a treat if it is food oriented. Continue at this depth until the cat does not panic and try to escape. Repeat daily, until the cat treats it as part of a routine, gradually increasing the depth until it is accepting standing in 4-5 ins of water. As a final step, have someone else reassure the cat whilst you use your hand to gently make waves in the water. This can take a week, or months depending on the cat, but it is worth the perseverance to know that you can safely bathe your pet when necessary.
If all else fails, take your cat to a reputable, professional pet groomer or a vet for their washing. They will be able to use techniques to keep the cat calm.
Some cats will do better in an empty tub with water being poured on rather then being put into a tub with water already in it.
If you are giving your cat a flea bath, wet the area around its neck first. Fleas will try to escape to the dry areas of the cat, which can mean a mass exodus of fleas to the head and face while you are bathing. A wet neck will keep them off the head, and in contact with the water and flea shampoo.
You may find it helpful, if you have a cat that is very attached to you and is not scratching but is just scared, to simply take a shower with your animal. Wear a heavy sweatshirt and allow the cat to sit on your chest. The cat will most likely bury its face in your neck and feel calmed. Wash and rinse your cat as normal.
Another idea is to place your cat and water in a small plastic dishwashing tub (about 12x18 in.) and stand over it. This way, you can more easily control the cat, and it is harder for it to escape. I've found that never letting my cat escape on its own, and only letting it go when I am done has helped it be calm and cooperative during baths. It also helps to make bath time quick and gentle.
An oven rack can be used to give the cat something to hold onto. This reduces the chance of you being scratched and makes the cat feel better.
If you have a litter box in the same room as you are bathing the cat, remove it! Sometimes after the cat is put in the bath and it happens to escape it may go to the litter box and soon your floor will be covered in litter!
The YouTube video "How to Wash a Cat", though originally intended for comedy, has a lot of good tips in it.

Warnings
Make sure the outside air temperature is over 70 degrees and at low humidity. Bathed cats can, and will, contract pneumonia, as they are easily chilled. Keep bathed cat indoors in warm family room for 12 hours if weather won't cooperate.
Watch out for cat claws if you decide to bathe your cat. Wearing a thick, long-sleeved sweater is one way to avoid getting scratched badly while bathing your cat. Be patient and gentle; it is natural for cats to fight the water because it simply doesn't feel right.
If you don't know how to properly hold a cat by the scruff, don't do it. Your cat may choke.
Don't put shampoo on their head. It could get in their eyes.
Be aware that you shouldn't bathe your cat frequently, this technique is just in case your pet is really dirty.
Although some cats may accept the bath without great complaints, they may get nervous or angry or too scared when you try to dry them. Be careful during this last phase-- shut the door of the bathroom or the cat will run away all wet, keep it calm or it will urinate, creating a big mess.
If you find your cat objects too much to a bath by hissing at you and trying to escape, then forget the bath. Use a wet washcloth instead. It removes the outer dirt, and cleans well. At your local pet store, you can find treated cloths that need no water to be used to groom the cat. They even have a pleasant scent.
Cats absorb chemicals through their skin, so they must be very well rinsed. Rinse until you see only clear water running off the cat.
Make sure to use specially formulated shampoo for cats. Your hair is different from that of your cat, and your shampoo will only irritate your cat's skin.
Do not use flea shampoos for dogs on your cat. They may contain ingredients that are harmful to your cat. Be sure to read the label on all products, and be aware that some flea products formulated for cats may still cause a reaction.
Do not bathe your pet any more than once every two weeks. Excessive bathing may remove protective oils from its fur, making it appear dull, and reducing the fur's natural efficiency against the elements.
Never use sinks that are freestanding because your cat might jump and slip from being wet and hurt itself.
Never get soap in your cat's eyes. As a safeguard, put 1 to 2 drops of eye lubricant into each eye just before bathing. You can use any human labelled eye drops that are indicated as a non-medicated ocular lubricant, often used for dry eye syndrome. They are available as over the counter (OTC) products at most drug stores.
Similarly, do not get soapy water into your cat's ears. To minimize the risk of creating an ear infection (otitis externa), put a pledget of cotton in each ear. Don't forget to take them out at the end of the bath. The cotton may also reduce the noise and make your job easier. At the very least your cat may be pre-occupied with the cotton in its ears and remain distracted. If your cats ears are particularly filthy, gently wipe the insides with a warm, damp wash cloth with no soap. Cat's ears contain protective waxes and oils that should not be removed.
Listen for sounds of unhappiness. These sounds include hissing, growling, breathing hard, sneezing, crying, and mewing.
Avoid using a blow dryer on a short-haired cat or kitten as it may burn them and/or cause more trauma. Short-haired cats can bathe themselves dry.
Never force your cat's head under the water! To wash their head and face, use a wash cloth.

Things You'll Need
Shampoo
Conditioner
2 towels
Brush/comb
Your cat
A bath
Warm water (Not luke warm. Almost hot!)
A jumper or a long sleeved shirt
2 or more people